It seems wrong to give the nod for Best Thai outside the borders of Frogtown, a St. Paul neighborhood speckled with modest restaurants offering the most flavorful, authentic Indochinese cuisine in the Twin Cities. But On's Thai Cuisine Kitchen has earned its title. After cooking professionally for a quarter century, On opened her own venture where she cooks all entrees coming through her open kitchen. Every. Single. Entree. She can be seen daily at the helm of her line brewing and mixing Thai spices for each dish and pumping out clouds of steam that could move piston valves in a locomotive. Each dish is fragrant with curry, garlic, fish sauce, honey, hoisin, chile peppers, cilantro, jalapeño, lemongrass, coconut, scallions, cashews, peanuts — and a little love from On herself.