Like Catherine Deneuve, Meritage has a French elegance that only seems to grow more alluring with time. The supple curve of the Tarbais beans in the cassoulet, the tender oysters brimming with their salty juices, the quivering egg yolks atop the benedict, the aged-to-perfection New York strip: Every lovely, delicious bite secures its status as a classic. The room is simple, lights perfectly dimmed for romance. While Meritage continues to wonderfully execute the classics, it also continues to grow and change. The crispy chicken should have its own category for Best Use of Chicken Skin. The cocktail list is filled with new, innovative takes on classic drinks. The seasonal menus include new dishes every few months that encapsulate the considerable talent in chef Russell Klein's French kitchen.